Monday, March 15, 2010

Nyepi

Since several of you asked I thought this would be a good place to try to explain Nyepi (nyeh pee), Balinese New Year.

Nyepi is one of the few Balinese holidays that happens on an annual basis - Western annual that is. The Balinese festivals are usually on a 210 day cycle or multiple years. The Balinese "year" is more than a little complicated.

Although Nyepi is theoretically on one day, there are a number of cermonies on other days, the actual schedule being dependent on the village.

I'm most familiar with Nyepi in Jimbaran in South Bali so I'll describe it. About three days before Nyepi Day is Melasti. The icons of the gods are taken to the village temple from various houses in the village. Then everyone, dressed in their finest, processes to the nearby beach for a purification ceremony. Once purified, the icons are returned to the village temple.

The day before Nyepi families visit the village temple with offerings and for prayers. At the end of the temple time, the icons of the gods return to the family compounds where they reside until the next Nyepi.

That night ogoh-ogoh's are paraded through the village. All hand made and some absolutely huge, they are the designer's concept of an evil spirit. Many are very elaborate and may have lights and music. After the parade they may be taken to the ocean and dumped into the water, they may be burned, or they may sit by the side of the road until they fall apart.

On Nyepi Day, at sunrise, all activity stops. There are no vehicles on the roads, all the lights are off, there is no cooking, smoking, drinking, etc (but I'll be there are a bunch of new babies 9 months later!). The idea is to meditate on the year past and on the upcoming year, thinking about how one can become a better person.

Even the international airport closes to all flights, except emergencies. The airport is one of the few places where there are a few lights. Tourists are confined to hotel grounds. Lights can be turned on in rooms once the drapes are closed. Food is available and the limited staff are non-Hindus.

At sunrise the next morning, things return to "normal" and generally the day is one of visiting families. I've experienced Nyepi three times, and it's always a a great experience - my favorite Balinese holiday.

Search for Nyepi and ogoh-ogoh on the net to see photos. I'm being lazy and not getting mine out.